If you’re planning to paint or refinish your kitchen cabinets, choosing the right sandpaper grit is one of the most important decisions you’ll make. It’s also one of the easiest to get wrong. The correct grit creates a smooth, durable surface that lets primer and paint bond the way they should. The wrong grit can leave scratches that telegraph right through your finish, or a surface so slick that paint starts peeling within months.
At Ulta Home, cabinet refinishing is part of many of the kitchen remodeling projects we complete throughout MetroWest Boston, from Ashland and Framingham out to Wellesley and Westborough. And whether we’re on a job site or answering questions from neighbors, one of the most common things homeowners ask is some version of “What grit sandpaper should I actually use?” It’s a fair question, because the answer isn’t one number. It depends on the condition of your cabinets, the finish you’re applying, and whether your doors are solid wood, MDF, or laminate.
This guide walks through exactly which grit to use at every stage of the process, why each one matters, and where homeowners tend to run into trouble, so you can get professional-looking results whether you’re tackling the project yourself or deciding it’s time to bring in help.
Sandpaper Grit Guide at a Glance
If you just need a quick answer before a trip to the hardware store, the table below covers the most common cabinet scenarios. Keep reading below the table for the details behind each recommendation, because knowing why a grit works is what keeps you from sanding through a veneer or leaving swirl marks in your topcoat.
| Cabinet Project | Recommended Grit |
| Remove heavy paint or finish | 80 grit |
| Sand raw wood | 120 grit |
| Prepare cabinets before primer | 150 grit |
| Smooth primer | 220 grit |
| Between coats of paint | 220–320 grit |
| Before applying stain | 150–180 grit |
| Final finish sanding | 320–400 grit |
One thing you’ll notice in that table: cabinet work almost never starts and ends with a single grit. Most projects move through a progression, starting coarser to do the heavy lifting and finishing finer to refine the surface. Skipping steps in that progression is where most DIY finishes go sideways.
Why Sandpaper Grit Matters
Sandpaper grit refers to the size of the abrasive particles on the paper. Lower numbers mean larger, more aggressive particles that remove material quickly. Higher numbers mean finer particles that smooth and polish. Think of it like the difference between a rasp and a nail file. Both remove material, but you’d never reach for them interchangeably.
For cabinets specifically, grit matters more than it does on almost any other surface in your home. Cabinet doors sit at eye level, catch light from every direction, and get touched constantly. A scratch that would disappear on a baseboard will stand out on a cabinet door the moment the afternoon sun hits it. Choosing the correct grit improves paint adhesion, creates a noticeably smoother finish, and is honestly the biggest difference between cabinets that look refinished and cabinets that look repainted.
Which Sandpaper Grit Should You Use?
Here’s how each grit earns its place in a cabinet project, and when you’d actually reach for it.
80 grit is your heavy remover. If your cabinets have thick layers of old paint, a failing finish, or deep scratches and dings, 80 grit strips that material down efficiently. Use it sparingly and only when you genuinely need it, because it leaves visible scratches that every later grit has to erase.
120 grit is the workhorse for bare wood. Once you’re down to raw wood, or if you’re starting with unfinished cabinets, 120 grit levels the surface and knocks down raised grain without gouging.
150 grit is the best starting point for most painted cabinets. If your existing finish is in decent shape and you’re painting over it, you usually don’t need anything coarser. 150 grit scuffs the old finish enough for primer to grab while keeping the surface smooth.
220 grit is your smoothing grit. It’s what you’ll use to knock down primer once it dries, and it’s ideal for light sanding between paint coats. This is the step that gives cabinet paint that glassy, factory-like feel.
320 to 400 grit is for premium finishing. If you’re after a truly high-end result, especially with a sprayed finish or a dark color that shows every imperfection, a final pass with these ultra-fine grits takes the surface from good to flawless.
Does Cabinet Material Change the Grit You Should Use?
It does, and this is where a lot of well-intentioned projects get into trouble. Not every cabinet in a MetroWest kitchen is solid wood, even when it looks like it.
Solid wood is the most forgiving. It can handle a normal progression starting at 120 or 150 grit, and if you sand a little too aggressively, the wood underneath is the same material all the way through.
MDF needs a gentler touch. It sands quickly and easily, which sounds like a good thing until you realize how fast you can round over a crisp edge or cut through the factory face. Stick to finer grits, use light pressure, and be especially careful on profiled door edges.
Laminate and thermofoil should only ever get a light scuff sanding, usually with 220 grit, before a quality bonding primer. The surface layer is thin, and there’s no wood underneath to save you if you sand through it. Your goal here isn’t to remove anything. It’s just to dull the sheen so primer has something to hold onto.
Step-by-Step Cabinet Sanding Process
Sanding is really only one part of a successful cabinet refinish. The steps around it matter just as much. Here’s the process we follow, and the same order works whether you’re doing one bathroom vanity or a full kitchen.
1. Clean the cabinets.
Kitchen cabinets collect cooking grease and residue that sandpaper will smear around rather than remove. Wash every surface with a degreasing cleaner and let it dry completely before you sand a single door.
2. Remove hardware.
Take off hinges, pulls, and knobs, and label the doors so everything goes back where it came from. Sanding around hardware is how edges get missed and finishes end up uneven.
3. Sand with the proper grit.
Start with the grit that matches your situation from the guide above, and always sand with the grain on wood surfaces. Work methodically door by door rather than jumping around.
4. Remove all dust.
Vacuum, then wipe every surface with a tack cloth or a barely damp microfiber cloth. Dust left behind ends up permanently sealed into your primer coat.
5. Prime.
A quality primer suited to your cabinet material bridges the gap between the old surface and the new paint. This step is not optional, especially over laminate or previously painted surfaces.
6. Sand the primer with 220 grit.
Primer raises small imperfections and can leave a slightly rough texture. A light pass with 220 grit levels everything out and sets up your paint for a smooth final look.
7. Apply paint and lightly sand between coats.
Two thin coats beat one thick coat every time. Between coats, a gentle scuff with 220 to 320 grit removes any dust nibs and gives the next coat a better surface to bond to.
Common Cabinet Sanding Mistakes
After years of refinishing cabinets across Greater Boston, we’ve seen the same handful of mistakes over and over, and most of them come down to rushing. The most common is starting with sandpaper that’s too coarse. It feels productive because material comes off fast, but those deep scratches follow you through every step afterward. Right behind it is skipping the cleaning step, which grinds kitchen grease into the surface instead of removing it.
The rest of the list is familiar to anyone who has refinished furniture: leaving dust behind before priming, sanding against the grain, pressing too hard instead of letting the paper do the work, and skipping the light sanding between coats because the paint already “looks fine.” None of these mistakes shows up immediately. They show up weeks later, when the light hits the doors a certain way or the paint starts to peel at the edges. A little patience at each step is genuinely the cheapest insurance you can buy on this project.
Hand Sanding vs. Power Sanding
Homeowners often ask whether they need an orbital sander for cabinet work, and the honest answer is that the best results usually come from using both approaches where each one shines. An orbital sander is great on large, flat surfaces like slab door faces and end panels. It saves time and produces a consistent scratch pattern when you keep it moving and let the weight of the tool do the work.
Hand sanding is better for everything else: profiled edges, raised panel details, face frames, and any spot where a power sander could round over a crisp line. A sanding sponge or a folded sheet of paper gives you the control that detailed cabinet doors demand. Most professionals, our team included, move back and forth between the two throughout a project rather than committing to one.
When It’s Time to Call a Professional
Plenty of homeowners handle a cabinet refresh themselves, and this guide should give you everything you need to do it well. That said, there are situations where professional refinishing saves real time and delivers a better long-term result: cabinets with water damage or failing veneer, kitchens with lots of detailed or raised-panel doors, older finishes that may need special handling, or simply a kitchen large enough that the sanding alone would eat several weekends.
If you’re in Ashland, Framingham, Wellesley, Weston, Westborough, or anywhere in the MetroWest area and you’d rather have an experienced team take it from here, Ulta Home handles cabinet refinishing as part of our kitchen remodeling work. Reach out anytime, even if you just want a second opinion on whether your cabinets are good candidates for refinishing.
Choosing the Right Sandpaper Grit for Cabinets in MetroWest Boston
Whether you’re refinishing a single vanity or planning a complete kitchen remodel, choosing the proper sandpaper grit is one of the most important steps toward a finish that looks beautiful and holds up to daily life. Follow the progression, respect your cabinet material, and don’t rush the steps between coats, and you’ll be well on your way to a result you’re proud of every time you walk into the kitchen. And if you’d rather have expert hands on the project, or you’re weighing cabinet refinishing against a larger kitchen update, we’re happy to help you think it through. Contact Ulta Home to schedule a consultation, and let’s talk about what your kitchen could be.
Frequently Asked Questions
What grit sandpaper should I use before painting cabinets?
For most cabinets with an existing finish in decent shape, begin with 150 grit to scuff the surface, then follow with 220 grit after your primer dries. That two-step combination covers the majority of cabinet painting projects.
Should I sand between coats of cabinet paint?
Yes, and it’s one of the steps that separates a professional-looking finish from an average one. A light pass with 220 to 320 grit between coats removes dust nibs and small imperfections so each new coat goes on smoother than the last.
Can I skip sanding if I use bonding primer?
Bonding primers are impressive, but light sanding is still recommended. Even the best primer adheres better to a scuffed surface, and sanding also levels out imperfections that primer alone will simply highlight.
What grit removes old cabinet paint?
Start with 80 grit to cut through heavy paint or a failing finish, then progress through finer grits like 120 and 150 to erase the scratches the 80 grit leaves behind. Never jump straight from 80 grit to primer.
Can I use an orbital sander on cabinets?
Yes, on flat surfaces like slab doors and side panels, where it saves significant time. Switch to hand sanding for edges, trim, and profiled details, where a power sander can quickly round over crisp lines.
Should cabinets feel completely smooth before painting?
They should feel uniformly dull with a very slight texture, which is often called “tooth.” A surface that’s polished glassy-smooth actually gives primer and paint less to grip, so smooth and even is the goal, not slick.
What is the biggest mistake people make when sanding cabinets?
Starting with sandpaper that’s too coarse. The deep scratches it leaves are easy to miss on bare wood but show up clearly once paint goes on, and by then the only fix is starting over.